Painted or not painted

[Sir_Nytehawk357]

Does anyone know if the mini's come painted or not???

[Jorel]

Not painted.

[kevarin]

would have been cool to have painted pieces as an option during the kick starter
and i think having them not painted could turn away some people

[Jorel]

1.4 million dollars says it was more successful than they planned for and that other layer of painting may have brought in a bit more money, but it would also have brought in a ton more work and cost.

[jaymz]

Aren't the Rick Hunter and Roy Fokker VFs painted though? Otherwise they are just a specially posed VF-1J and S

[kevarin]

if you did a specific pledge level you got a painted rick hunter and roy fokker but other than that there just special posed figures i think

[jaymz]

so the RH and RF ARE Painted?

[Jorel]

for $3,500 you could have gotten...

GLOVAL'S REPORT: Gloval's Report backers receive a studio painted copy of the Robotech® RPG Tactics™ boxed game and Rick Hunter SE Veritech. They also receive all the contents and rewards from the Battle Cry pledge levels. Painted copy will ship after other rewards.

so one game and one Rick Hunter, no Folkers.

[Jorel]

This is the exact same as a Battlecry which was $140. You are paying $3,360 to have someone paint 1 figure and 1 game and not any of the rest of the pieces you get.

[Jorel]

so the RH and RF ARE Painted?

nope

[jaymz]

Then they are not RH and RF if I cannot paint for ****.....well damn.

[glitterboy2098]

personally i'm glad that the figures are unpainted..
1) most pre-painted stuff sucks in terms of how good the paint jobs are. tend to be very sloppy, don't have much detail, etc.
2) pre-paints also would mean pre-assembled.. which means no ability to individualize my figures by using different poses and modified parts.
3.) pre-assembled and pre-painted would take up much more space in the box.. also would cost much more.

plus i want to make each of my squadrons unique in appearance in terms of paint schemes.. pre-paints would give me a crap load of the light brown/white "redshirts".. and i'd have to strip a ton of figures so i could repaint them the way i want.

[jaymz]

I don't dispute that but you have to also keep in mind not everyone is a good painter. I'd have at least liked the special models to have been done.

[Kryptt]

The at-43 stuff was pretty good for prepaints and the x-wing ships are really nice too. I'm not a good painter but I prefer un painted just so I can customize my figs so they don't have that cookie cutter look like every other army. Remember guys before applying paint water it down with water first or buy airbrush paint that's already thinned out.

[jaymz]

Remember guys before applying paint water it down with water first or buy airbrush paint that's already thinned out.

That would really depend on exactly what it is you are trying to do with the paint

[Kryptt]

Remember guys before applying paint water it down with water first or buy airbrush paint that's already thinned out.

That would really depend on exactly what it is you are trying to do with the paint

True enough. Especially if your going to dry brush parts of the mini/model.

[jaymz]

I'm excited and terrified of getting all of this painted. I'm barely keeping up with my Hordes army and it's only about 50 models right now. I have 175 models coming in and they will all get to me on the same day. My head may explode.

That being said I would not have spent nearly as much on pre-painted models. The Star Wars mini's game is only ok quality and they are the best pre-painted models I've seen.

If you want a good paint job and don't feel up to painting them yourself there are servicees online that you can have do it or you could try to find your local wargamers and find out who in your area does commission work there is almost always someone willing to do it.

That is assuming you can afford to outsource it.

[Forar]

I have friends who like to pull out their collection once a year, and I'll say that while there's some variety to the results, Monsterpocalypse wasn't bad for being pre-painted. X-Wing can also be slightly hit or miss in the casting (the material doesn't hold hard straight lines very well at times, but at least in my experience I generally overlook it unless I'm giving an X-Wing a very close inspection) but for pre-painted the job is pretty good (far better than my amateur hands could pull off).

And yeah, my crew has 800 minis coming to the 3 of us, of which we'll likely be keeping around 670, of which roughly 200 will end up at my place, so I can totally understand it being a bit daunting to even just have a Battle Cry or Showdown coming.

As someone who finally picked up his first miniatures game about two years ago (Malifaux 1.5), I'll say this much; read up a bit on the net (there are guides for a variety of games and figures out there, and techniques for one often translate well to others), especially the material you're working with. For this much plastic, a quality set of hobby/electronics/etc snips are great, along with a sharp exacto knife of some sort for find trimming, and some files to get a nice flat surface off what's left. I use Gale Force Nine's hobby glue for both pewter and plastic figures, and rarely have much of a problem with it, though I'm still refining my assembly technique.

Once I have a good 6-12+ figures assembled, I prime them and set them aside to dry. I've heard of people using auto body primer, as it's apparently the same basic thing but often available for cheaper than the hobby stuff, but $10 for a can that'll last me a ton of figures (Malifaux is a low figure count game) meant I never really cared. One tip here is to use short bursts in sweeping strokes; you're aiming to cover the figure with a layer, not drown it. 2 light coats (with time to dry in between) can also be better for getting good coverage without overdoing it. I overdid it on some of my earlier models. The results weren't pretty, but I'm not a perfectionist so I just moved onto the next project.

When it comes to painting, especially the hundreds of figures a lot of us have coming, I find it helpful to pick a reasonable goal and work on it. With Malifaux there weren't many times that I was doing multiple identical figures, so I'd generally pick 1-3 and work on those for the night. With 'assembly line' style units that are literally mass produced, I'll likely pick a squad of 4-6 and do one colour at a time across each figure, moving onto the next colour on the first model once the fourth/sixth has been treated, giving the paints a bit of time to dry and minimizing the need to constantly wash out and dry my brushes. Once a baseline is established on the rank and file I may go back over for individual unit accoutrements. I've been pondering how I want to do this; the Zentraedi will likely be heavily similar so I'm not too worried, but the RDF I'm wavering between painting up in camo schemes either in pairs (so adding two of something as an upgrade will work) or full squadrons of 4 (which works the same as option 1, but also means only getting a few variations, especially since I'll probably have some 'canon' schemes in the mix; the unique setups for Max/Miriya/Rick/Roy/etc and some 'grunts', perhaps even in the "I don't have plot armour" brown. I've been wavering between having 3 or 4 VT flights, so I'll likely cross that bridge once we know more about the game and I have a better idea how high a point total we're likely to be playing at and what forces I'm going to regularly be using towards that end, and what I enjoy using. No real point in having dozens of regular VFs if I commonly end up building a core of Super VFs for most of the games I'm involved in, y'know?

[glitterboy2098]

with VF's, it might be a good idea to do one of each mode in each batch.. that way you can make sure the paint schemes match between modes.

[Jorel]

it is a good suggestion. I'm not sure if I'd rather have that or matching squad as you won't ever see the pieces next to the other transformable part.

[Trooper Jim]

Sorry, no paint..... No money. My eyes are too bad and hands to shaky to paint.

[Forar]

It's all about working within your means. Even as a novice, my suggestion would be to simply assemble them, spray on primer (there are some good tutorials on the net about this) and go from there. Take your time, it's not a race. Maybe see if you have friends who might be willing to help add a little detail if you find it a struggle to even get a little in place. Snag a pizza together and throw on some movies, make an evening or an afternoon of it.

There's no shame in working within ones limitations. I've got a close friend with a disorder that causes shaking in his hands as well, but due to decades of painting he has still produced some incredible pieces. Things I'll probably never manage to match, no matter how long I'm mucking around in this hobby for. But if it's truly not in the cards, that just provides an opportunity to get creative about it.

[Spinachcat]

I am having mine semi-pro painted because I want to do FLGS demos. It will probably cost me $300-$500 to do the Battlecry box depending on the level of detail I request.

However, if you just want a decent paintjob, you can get it cheap. I highly suggest posting ads on Craigslist and your FLGS and be upfront on what you want done and what you will pay. A $100 can easily get your Battlecry box assembled and painted if you find somebody who has the talent and time, but needs the money. College kids, high school kids, unemployed people are all good options. And anybody can scrounge up or save $100 over 6-12 months if cash is tight. I do believe you will have PLENTY of time before the KS arrives in the mail.

Also, some painters will trade minis for paintjobs. Decide how many figs you can sacrifice and cut a deal.

You would be surprised how many people just really love to paint and if you give them some cash or trade plus time without being annoying about deadlines, they will do it cheap since painting is their hobby. For amateurs who want to get better, painting somebody else's stuff is a boon. Especially if keep them in beer, paint, brushes and chips during the process.

[Forar]

There's no question, these are not painted pieces.

Among the more expensive tiers were a few core boxes that would be professionally painted for those willing to pay such a premium.

But as Spinachcat points out above, asking around game shops and checking online (craigslist, etc) should find a variety of people offering a similar service.

That said, don't be too quick to hand over a giant pile of minis to the first cheap guy you come across. There are tons of horror stories on the net of people sending off hundreds and thousands of dollars in figures to have them assembled/based/painted for a fee, and getting a shoddy job back, or nothing at all, or having to fight just to receive their original models back after months or even years.

[Kryptt]

In a couple of days I should be finished painting my Max mini. I'll post pics and you all can let me know how I did. I got about 98% painted its a matter of cleaning up some areas and detailing the panel lines.

[Forar]

Kryptt, don't mess around with this.

You invoked the 98% clause and set a timeline.

You know what you must do.

[Kryptt]

Kryptt, don't mess around with this.

You invoked the 98% clause and set a timeline.

You know what you must do.

Yeah, talk the talk and show nothing in the meantime. For now I'm in way over my head, but everyone at home loves the snazzy paint job so far and you will too.

[ZINO]

1.4 million dollars says it was more successful than they planned for and that other layer of painting may have brought in a bit more money, but it would also have brought in a ton more work and cost.

it took three day to reach the gaol to make the kickstater!!!!!!!!!!that tell you something IMHO